Collection: Tretinoin Friendly

In Korean skincare, toners are designed to replenish hydration and prepare your skin for the next steps. Unlike traditional Western astringent toners, Korean toners are lightweight and packed with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or panthenol.

Using a hydrating toner after cleansing helps to:

• Rehydrate your skin (especially important when using tretinoin, as it can cause dryness).
• Soothe irritation and maintain your skin’s moisture barrier.
• Allow your moisturizer to lock in hydration more effectively.

A moisturizer works as a sealant to lock in all the hydration and nutrients from your toner and other layers. It prevents water loss from your skin and protects the barrier, which is especially crucial when using tretinoin, as it can compromise the barrier.

When using tretinoin, buffering with a light, non-occlusive moisturizer or emulsion is generally recommended because they provide sufficient emollience to reduce irritation without creating a heavy barrier that could interfere with tretinoin’s absorption. Emollients, like lotions or emulsions, soften and smooth the skin, helping to repair the skin barrier while still being breathable. They are ideal for buffering as they help calm dryness and irritation caused by tretinoin without locking in too much product on the skin’s surface.

While hydrating products with humectants (e.g., hyaluronic acid or glycerin) attract water into the skin, they do not offer the soothing, smoothing properties of emollients or the balance of light oils that help buffer tretinoin. Using hydrating-only products might not provide enough relief for dryness, irritation, or peeling associated with tretinoin.

In comparison, occlusive moisturizers, such as petrolatum-based ointments, are too heavy for buffering because they create a thick, impermeable barrier on the skin. This can trap tretinoin on the skin’s surface, increasing irritation rather than preventing it. Occlusives are better reserved for nighttime slugging when the skin is not actively exposed to tretinoin.

A light emulsion or lotion, ideally with ceramides, fatty acids, or squalane, works well as a buffer since it supports the skin barrier and soothes irritation without overloading the skin. Products that balance emollient and humectant properties (like the Tirtir Milk Ampoule or Purito Ceramide Moisturizer) are excellent choices

If you’re using a buffer, apply a thin layer of the emulsion/moisturizer first, wait a few minutes, then apply tretinoin to minimize irritation.

Here’s a simple routine to follow:

1. Start with Clean, Dry Skin

• Wash your face with a gentle, non-stripping cleanser. Avoid exfoliating or active ingredients like AHAs, BHAs, or vitamin C.

• Pat your skin completely dry. Applying tretinoin to damp skin can increase absorption, which may lead to irritation. Wait at least 10-20 minutes for your skin to dry.

2. Use a Pea-Sized Amount of Tretinoin

• Squeeze a pea-sized amount of tretinoin (about 0.25g) onto your fingertip. This is enough for your entire face.

• Dab it in small dots onto your forehead, cheeks, chin, and nose.

• Gently spread it into a thin, even layer across your face. Avoid the following sensitive areas:

• Around the eyes

• Corners of the mouth

• Nostrils

• Neck (if you are a beginner)

Tip: Applying more will not make tretinoin work faster but can lead to dryness and irritation.

The sandwich method with tretinoin involves “buffering” the retinoid between layers of moisturizer to reduce irritation while still allowing it to be effective. This technique is particularly useful for beginners or those with sensitive skin.

1. Cleanse your face

Start with a gentle, hydrating cleanser to remove dirt and oils without stripping the skin barrier.

2. Apply a thin layer of moisturizer

Use a light, non-occlusive moisturizer or emulsion as your first layer. This creates a barrier to slightly dilute the tretinoin’s penetration and reduce irritation.

3. Wait 15-30 minutes

Allow the moisturizer to settle into your skin to ensure it’s not overly damp. Applying tretinoin to damp skin can increase absorption and irritation.

4. Apply tretinoin

Take a pea-sized amount of tretinoin (enough for the entire face) and spread it thinly across your face. Avoid sensitive areas like around the eyes, nostrils, and lips.

5. Seal with another layer of moisturizer

After the tretinoin absorbs (about 15 minutes), apply another layer of your moisturizer to “sandwich” the tretinoin. This locks in hydration and further reduces dryness or irritation.

Why It Works:

• First layer of moisturizer: Acts as a buffer to slow down tretinoin absorption, reducing irritation.

• Tretinoin layer: Ensures the active ingredient can still work on your skin.

• Second layer of moisturizer: Adds a protective barrier to lock in hydration and minimize peeling or dryness.

Best Products for the Sandwich Method:

• First & Last Layer: Lightweight, non-occlusive moisturizers or emulsions like Purito Dermide Barrier Moisturizer, Skin1004 Soothing Cream, Rovectin Lotus Water Cream or iUNIK Centella Calming Gel Cream.

• Tretinoin Layer: Apply your prescribed tretinoin product (e.g., Retin-A, Stieva-A).

This method ensures tretinoin remains effective while minimizing irritation, especially when starting out or during dry, peeling phases.

• Start with 0.025% tretinoin 2-3 times a week to allow your skin to adjust.
• Always wear SPF 50+ broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day, as tretinoin makes your skin more sensitive to UV rays.
• Use soothing products with centella asiatica or allantoin if your skin feels irritated.

By following these steps, she can balance hydration and moisturization while avoiding dryness and irritation, which is at the heart of Korean skincare philosophy!

1. Strong Exfoliants (AHAs/BHAs/PHAs)

• Examples: Glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, polyhydroxy acids.
• Why Avoid? These acids are chemical exfoliants that can make the skin more sensitive and exacerbate irritation when used with tretinoin.
• Tip: If you want to use exfoliants, apply them on nights when you're not using tretinoin (e.g., alternate nights).

2. Benzoyl Peroxide

• Why Avoid? Benzoyl peroxide (often used for acne) can deactivate tretinoin and increase dryness and irritation.
• Tip: If you need benzoyl peroxide, use it in the morning and tretinoin at night, or alternate days.

3. Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)

• Why Avoid? Vitamin C is an acidic ingredient that can increase skin sensitivity and irritation when layered with tretinoin.
• Tip: Use Vitamin C in the morning to protect your skin from free radical damage and tretinoin at night.

4. Harsh Physical Exfoliants or Scrubs

• Why Avoid? Physical exfoliants can disrupt your skin barrier and worsen dryness or irritation caused by tretinoin.
• Tip: Focus on hydrating and soothing products instead of exfoliating.

5. Fragranced or Irritating Products

• Examples: Products with artificial fragrances, alcohol, or essential oils.
• Why Avoid? These can further irritate already-sensitive skin.

6. Drying Ingredients

• Examples: Witch hazel, astringent toners, alcohol-based products, or anything overly mattifying.
• Why Avoid? Tretinoin already causes dryness, so adding drying products can make your skin more prone to flakiness and irritation.

7. Retinoids or Other Vitamin A Derivatives

• Examples: Retinol, retinaldehyde, adapalene.
• Why Avoid? Combining multiple retinoids can lead to excessive irritation, peeling, and redness.

8. Multiple Actives at Once

• Why Avoid? Using too many active ingredients (e.g., acids, Vitamin C, or retinoids) can overwhelm your skin, especially when it’s adjusting to tretinoin.

Key Tip: Focus on Hydration and Barrier Support

When starting tretinoin, it’s best to keep your routine simple and focus on gentle, hydrating, and soothing products. Look for ingredients like:

• Hyaluronic Acid: Deep hydration.
• Ceramides: Barrier repair.
• Niacinamide: Calming and barrier strengthening.
• Centella Asiatica: Soothing and healing.

What You Can Use with Tretinoin

• Gentle Cleanser: Non-foaming and non-stripping.
• Hydrating Toner/Serum: With humectants like hyaluronic acid or glycerin.
• Barrier Cream/Moisturizer: To lock in hydration and prevent water loss.
• Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen: SPF 50+ every day to protect your skin from increased UV sensitivity caused by tretinoin.

By avoiding harsh or irritating products and sticking to soothing, hydrating ones, you can enjoy the benefits of tretinoin while minimizing its side effects. 💧